Day 9 - Headwind Part 1 of 3
We knew from the moment we left the BnB that today was going to be a slog. Just so much wind. It's not even how much it slows you down it's just being in the wind all day.
Arriving in Belgrade was therefore a welcome break to the slow slog. A beautiful park along the river had a cycle path with armed guards at either end. Curious we passed by and then the reason for the soldiers became clear - we'd just missed the biggest military parade in Serbia in 40 years by about an hour! The increasingly authoritarian government is cracking down on student protests while saying it can defend itself to the world and join the EU. Quite a politically charged time to be here!
After watching the complicated maneuvers of the artillery pieces trying to turn around (a comparatively mundane maneuver contrasted with the terrifying weapons on the back) we hoiked the bikes up some stairs and went to find a coffee. A coffee and MUCH cake. The server looked at little doubtful as we ordered four slices and two coffees and then a couple more pieces for the road but we managed just fine don't worry.
Suitably charged up we finished the tourism by going to look at the cathedral (very nice but could do with a spire 😉) and then got back into the wind to get the rest of the way.
We were standing at the top of a hill, eating (what else) and deciding where to stay tonight when a farmer on old tractor with apples in the trailer rolled by. He indicated his load and we scored two beautiful apples! People here don't smile much, but seem very friendly and keen to talk. Chatted to a random chap by a water fountain who misunderstood that I was from Germany, so for ease of the conversation I now come from Frankfurt, but he was very happy to chat while balancing his cigarette between missing teeth! And a little later a teenager with great English specifically caught us up on his bike to ask where we were going and have a chat. We wondered if he'd just beaten us up the hill or if he'd had to get it out the garage and then catch us up too! Given he wasn't puffing we concluded the latter!
The wind turned to rolling hills which was considerably better than the straight flat roads, and the afternoon slowly went by until we finally made it to the town we're staying in tonight, but not before I'd been hit in the face by a bat while cycling! Not sure if me or the bat was more surprised. Although you realise the calibre of your friends when the person you with knowingly asks "Ah yes, now did you feel the furry body on the lips was worse, or the leathery-skin wings on your face?" 🤣 I'm glad we're treating ourselves to another shower tonight and not a tent in a field after that and the overflowing sewer on the road today!
It was admittedly a pretty sunset, even if we'd hoped to arrive in the light!
It's getting dark earlier and earlier as we travel east - can't wait for that timezone change to give us an hour back!
In other news...
While carrying 500ml of olive oil in a glass jar isn't exactly lightweight touring kit, it is extremely calorific. Ben has resorted to dousing everything in copious amounts of olive oil in a bid to maintain weight, although hasn't yet sunk to the level of drinking it directly (watch this space)...
Food spend today: 64.65 euros (7576 Serbian Dinar)
And here's our new thing - Difficulty Rating (out of 5, combination of mental and physical) so we can later compare food spend to difficulty: 3
